The year 2024 has wrapped up and we’re slowly getting back to our routines after holidays filled with endless snacks, glasses of wine or perhaps even martinis. Before diving into what the new year has to offer, let’s take time to check the releases that grabbed the spotlight at the end of the year.
We’re starting much like as in our previous article, with yet another collaboration, but this time, it’s a bit more thought-through. Instead of partnering with a fashion brand, this one involves an artist. But that’s not all, there were also other interesting models worth mentioning.
So, pour yourself a cup of coffee and dive into this read. And if some of the terms leave you having no clue what they are about, don’t you worry – we’ve got you covered with a glossary at the end.
Audemars Piguet x Kaws Royal Oak Concept Tourbillon ‘Companion’
Audemars Piguet is well known for not being afraid of blending high-end watchmaking with pop culture. This time, the Swiss brand has teamed up with Brooklyn-based contemporary pop artist Kaws to reimagine their Concept Tourbillon, integrating the artist’s iconic character into its design. We believe, that we don’t need to introduce the character or the artist… Yes, we’re talking about the ‘Companion’ character, a reinterpretation of the classic rubber-hose cartoon, complete with a skull and crossbones motif. You’ve likely seen it everywhere, from socks and tees to actual interior sculptures. For this model, the character is crafted entirely from brushed and sandblasted titanium, positioned on the dial, with its chest cleverly revealing the tourbillon cage. While a partnership with a brand like Swatch could be a better and more playful fit for us, we do understand the move. From the conceptual perspective, it’s pretty damn well done. So naturally, it’s a limited edition of just 250 pieces only. And as for the price tag? Don’t even ask… For more, click here.
Universal Genève Polerouter Tribute
If you’re not a watch nerd, chances are you’ve never heard of Universal Genève—and that’s completely fine. Founded in 1894 as Universal Watch in Le Locle, they made their name back then with a wide range of chronographs. However, the biggest change came for the brand with the Polarouter collection. But what made these formal dress watches that special? Designed by a young Gérald Genta in 1954, they were created for SAS airline pilots making the first flights over the North Pole, from Copenhagen to Los Angeles. The watches combined a refined, formal aesthetic with advanced engineering to resist shocks, magnetism, and extreme changes in temperature and moisture. To mark the Polarouter’s 70th anniversary, Universal Genève, now under the Breitling group, has released a trio of new models that hint at the brand’s revival. We’ll have to wait until 2026, when the brand’s official relaunch is planned, to see what Universal Genève has to offer. If you want to know more, head over to the official website.
IWC Ingenieur Automatic 40 Blue Dial
To expand the current Ingenieur collection introduced in 2023, which pays homage to Gérald Genta’s iconic 70s design, IWC has unveiled a new model with a dark blue dial. Until now, the collection featured black, silver, and green dials in stainless steel cases, alongside a white dial option in titanium. This latest release retains the signature grid pattern on the dial, a nod to the original model from the 70s, now enlarged and more pronounced in negative relief. With its barrel-shaped case and integrated bracelet, the Ingenieur Automatic 40 offers a contemporary take on a timeless design. Like the other models, it houses a 5-day power reserve and water resistance of up to 100 meters. While the black and white dial versions remain our favourites, this one is a close second. More details at IWC’s website.
Omega Seamaster Diver 300M
The Seamaster Diver 300M has been in the collection since 1993 and still is one of the brand’s most important models to this day. Over the years, it has seen countless iterations, from new colours and materials to some tweaks here and there creating subtle design evolutions. In the past two months, the Swiss watchmaker has introduced two new releases. The first features either a full steel dial or a black dial, following the look of the 007 Special Edition (a no-date option), paired with the brand’s signature mesh bracelet or, as seen with other models, a rubber strap. The next release, which came shortly after, is the same model, but in titanium and bronze-gold with a green dial and bezel. Now these are the kind of ‘Bond’ watches we wouldn’t mind having on our wrists… For more info, click here.
Longines Ultra-Chron Carbon Watch
Following last year’s Longines releases, it seems the brand is making a clear move to revamp its image and appear more contemporary and trendy. And this latest release proves just that. The new Ultra-Chron Carbon is a modern take on a vintage classic from the late ’60s, marking the first time Longines has used lightweight carbon for its case, offering a muted palette of blacks and greys. The watch features a 43mm cushion-shaped case and comes with a screwed-down titanium crown and caseback, ensuring a dive-ready water resistance of 300 meters. However, the fixed titanium bezel feels like a missed opportunity, taking away a key function of a dive watch.
Becoming a watch nerd?
- Tourbillon – is a French word for whirlwind, that describes the frenetic motion of the rotating cage oscillating balance wheel and balance spring while the movement is running. This cage, which rotates typically once per minute, aims to counteract the effects of gravity on the movement. It’s a complication designed to improve accuracy by counteracting the effects of gravity on the movement.
- Chronograph – is a traditional timepiece fitted with an extra complication to act as a stopwatch, allowing it to record time. Most chronographs have subdials on the watch face that display seconds, minutes, and hours elapsed. To use the chronograph function, there are typically pushers on the side of the watch case that allow to return of stopwatch hands to zero.
- IWC Ingenieur – was born in the mid-50s as a watch designed for engineers working in magnetic environments (thus the name), the IWC Ingenieur is mostly known for its redesign by Gerald Genta in the 70s, using his classic sports watch concept with an integrated bracelet. Some of the most popular models came out in the late 80s and early 90s, now with the latest version released in 2023.
- Gérald Genta – was a Swiss watchmaker and artist, who is known for his eponymous lines of timepieces. Throughout his career, he created some of the most iconic models in the watch world, many of which remain popular to this day. To name a few: Audemars Piguet Royal Oak, IWC Ingenieur, Omega Constellation and Patek Philippe Nautilus.
- No-date option/dial – A watch with a dial (a face) withouth a day indicator. A lot of people prefer this option for its simplicity and the non-complicated look of the face of a watch…
- Carbon case – carbon typically refers to lightweight and durable materials (resistance to wear and corrosion) like carbon fibre or forged carbon used for cases, dials, or components. For example, the Longines’ Ultra-Chron case was made from strips of unidirectional carbon fibre and epoxy resin. The materials are placed in a mould, heated to a high temperature, compressed under high pressure and cold cut to replicate the shape of the case. The random patterns produced by the carbon fibres make each case unique and contribute to the featherlight weight of the watch.
- Water resistance – refers to a watch’s ability to withstand exposure to water without damage. It is measured in meters (m), atmospheres (ATM), or bars, indicating the depth or pressure the watch can endure. However, these measurements are theoretical and don’t always equate to actual diving depths. 30m (3 ATM): Splash-proof, suitable for everyday use but not for swimming. 50m (5 ATM): Safe for showering or light swimming. 100m (10 ATM): Suitable for swimming and snorkelling. 200m+ (20 ATM or more): Ideal for professional diving or water sports.
- Crown – is the small knob typically located on the side of the watch case. It allows the wearer to adjust the time, date and other functions. In mechanical watches, it’s also used to wind the movement. Crowns come in different designs, such as screw-down crowns, which create a watertight seal for improved water resistance (dive watches). The crown is both a functional and aesthetic feature, often bearing the watch brand’s logo.
