Not only because of Dubai Watch Week, which happened in November, but this fall brought, in general, some very interesting novelties. There were really rather a lot, so we sat down and picked only those that we found very interesting. Surprisingly, it’s not all about the sports watches…
Longines Ultra-Chron Classic
Following the re-edition of the Ultra-Chron Diver a couple of years ago, Longines is now bringing back its first high-frequency watch from the late 60s. It’s a modern, vintage-inspired take on the original model and comes in two sizes, with a case diameter of 37mm and 40mm, both 11mm thick, well complemented by the brushed and polished, retro-shaped bracelet. Inside the case is a movement with a 52-hour power reserve, certified by Timelab in Geneva as an ultra-chronometer (hence the name). It’s another strong vintage-appealing recreation from the brand, paying tribute to its chronometry past. While we would personally look for other models from the portfolio, we still believe the smaller version could look great on many wrists. More info here.
Breguet Classique 7235
As part of its 250th-anniversary collection, Breguet recently introduced a piece that revisits the design principles defined by A.L. Breguet himself. Inspired by the archives, the watch reflects a design language that has shaped horology for more than 200 years. Made of 18k Breguet gold, the case measures 39mm in diameter and 9.9mm in thickness. The gold dial is entirely decorated using hand-applied guilloché techniques and debuts the new “Quai de l’Horloge” motif, with the power reserve located at 10:30 and the moon phase positioned right next to it. The watch offers a 45-hour power reserve and 30m water resistance and comes on a navy, large-scale alligator strap with an 18k Breguet gold pin buckle. Limited to 250 pieces only, it’s a unique dress watch and a real eye catcher… More details on the official website.
Blancpain Villeret Collection
Besides the well-known Fifty Fathoms line, the Villeret line is the collection that many people would associate with the brand. And now, Blancpain has reinterpreted three models in its Villeret collection, featuring golden-brown or opaline sunburst dials, with the Roman numeral “XII” replaced by the “JB” emblem in honour of the founder, Jehan-Jacques Blancpain. Each piece is available in stainless steel or 18k red gold and comes with updates that include larger, more legible calendar windows and larger crowns. The Villeret Quantième Complet Phases de Lune is housed in a 40.2mm case and displays the day, date, month, and lunar phase, offering a 72-hour power reserve. The Villeret Extraplate is a three-hand model with a date function, set in a 40mm case and powered by a movement with a 100-hour reserve. The Villeret Quantième Phases de Lune comes in a refined 33.2mm case, available in eight variations, including a diamond-set bezel and offers a 40-hour power reserve. All these models provide 30m of water resistance for everyday practicality. For us, it’s the model with the classic complete calendar that we can imagine having on the wrist. You can check more details here.
Louis Vuitton Monterey
Louis Vuitton made its first move into watchmaking in 1988 with the LV1 and LV2, also known by their nickname, the Monterey, designed by Italian architect Gae Aulenti. They have a shape that recalls pocket watches converted into wristwatches, complete with a crown at 12 o’clock. Now, in 2025, following the revamp of the Tambour and Escale collections, the Monterey returns as well. Inspired by the original models, it brings back the emblematic pebble-shaped case in 18k yellow gold, sized at 39mm, with a black leather strap attached beneath the case. One of the important updates sits inside; the watch now runs on an automatic movement (replacing the original quartz) with a 45-hour power reserve. Limited to 188 pieces, it’s one of those designs we might prefer slightly smaller, but then Jeremy Allen White was recently spotted wearing it and it looked damn good.
Alpina Alpiner Extreme Automatic 39mm California Dial
The brand made a strong mark back in 1938 with the Alpina 4, a robust model built with shock and water resistance, anti-magnetic properties and a durable steel case. Its modern revamp arrived in 2022, reintroducing a watch designed for outdoor use while still being a good-looking everyday beater. Available originally in 41mm and later in 39mm, the latest iteration introduces two retro-inspired California dials, combining Roman numerals on the upper half with Arabic numerals on the lower, offered in green or brown. The newest model comes in the 39mm case size, with 200m water resistance and a 38-hour power reserve. More details available on the Alpina website.
TAG Heuer Carrera Chronograph x fragment
TAG Heuer’s Carrera Chronograph has seen many variations since its introduction in 1963. For the 60th anniversary, the brand revisited the original curved acrylic crystals and reinterpreted them with the Carrera Glassbox. The smooth, domed sapphire crystal rising over the dial’s edge and into the case adds the watch a subtle retro touch. This time, the Carrera Glassbox is reimagined by FRGMT, the design studio founded by Japanese designer and a godfather of streetwear, Hiroshi Fujiwara. It marks their third collaboration, now expressed through an even more minimalist dial. The watch comes in a 39mm case, with an 80-hour power reserve and 100m water resistance, making it a very compelling release. Only the price point feels a bit steep compared to the regular Glassbox models.
Becoming a watch nerd?
- High-frequency movement – anything running above the classic 3Hz or 4Hz rate, being far more accurate than a chronometer certified by the COSC, reserved for pocket watches and timing instruments, the latter often used for sports timing, thanks to their superior precision and their ability to refine the results of a race. Longines was the first to develop a high-frequency wristwatch movement, in the frame of accuracy competitions and observatory chronometers.
- Movement – can be automatic/self-winding, manual winding or quartz and is what keeps the watch going.
- Automatic – (or self-winding movement) has a mechanism which winds the mainspring using the natural motions of the wearer’s body. The watch contains an oscillating weight that turns on a pivot.
- COSC – (“Contrôle Officiel Suisse des Chronomètres”) the watch must be able to stay within a 2-second range of variation each day throughout its power reserve
- Timelab in Geneva – an independent testing lab for certifying the precision and reliability of Swiss watches. They’re known for their strict standards. Unlike COSC, Timelab evaluates the finished watch as a whole, not just the movement, making the certification closer to real-world performance.
- Guilloché – a traditional decorative technique where intricate patterns are engraved on a watch dial or case, often by hand or with a specialised machine, creating a beautiful play of light and texture.
- Quai de l’Horloge – a specific guilloché pattern used by Breguet, inspired by the historic streets of Paris near the Breguet workshops. It’s a geometric, wave-like motif engraved on the dial, adding depth, texture, and a nod to the brand’s heritage.
- Power reserve – how long the watch can show you the time when it’s not on your wrist.
- Water resistance – refers to a watch’s ability to withstand exposure to water without damage. It is measured in meters (m), atmospheres (ATM), or bars, indicating the depth or pressure the watch can endure. However, these measurements are theoretical and don’t always equate to actual diving depths. 30m (3 ATM): Splash-proof, suitable for everyday use but not for swimming. 50m (5 ATM): Safe for showering or light swimming. 100m (10 ATM): Suitable for swimming and snorkelling. 200m+ (20 ATM or more): Ideal for professional diving or water sports.
- Complications – any functions on a watch that go beyond telling the time (from calendars and alarms to tourbillons and time zones).
- Moonphase function – displays the sunlit portion of the moon as observed from Earth at any given point during each 29.5-day lunar month.
- Crown – is the small knob typically located on the side of the watch case. It allows the wearer to adjust the time, date and other functions. In mechanical watches, it’s also used to wind the movement. Crowns come in different designs, such as screw-down crowns, which create a watertight seal for improved water resistance (dive watches). The crown is both a functional and aesthetic feature, often bearing the watch brand’s logo.
- Acrylic crystal – a classic watch glass you’ll often see on vintage pieces. It’s a lightweight, warm in appearance, and far less reflective than modern sapphire. However, it scratches way more easily.
- Chronograph – is a traditional timepiece fitted with an extra complication to act as a stopwatch, allowing it to record time. Most chronographs have subdials on the watch face that display seconds, minutes, and hours elapsed. To use the chronograph function, there are typically pushers on the side of the watch case that allow to return of the stopwatch hands to zero.
