We took some time off over the summer from covering every watch novelty, choosing instead to actually try different models on the wrist to give you a more personal perspective than just an opinion based on photos or specs from press releases.
Now, after our last short vacation in Spain, we’re back, and while you’d think the Swiss watchmakers might have gone on holiday too, they’ve been rather active. We can’t list every new release, so we’ve hand-picked the novelties that stood out to us the most.
Casio Edifice EFK-100 Automatic
There is no need for an introduction to Casio, the Japanese brand that has been around for decades (and probably many of us have had one of their digital watches on our wrists). They are the GOAT of digital watches. Period. But here comes the interesting part. In all those years, Casio never made a mechanical watch until now. This model has nothing in common with the iconic digital watches from the 80s, nor with the G-Shock line. Instead, it’s a part of Casio’s sporty-chic Edifice collection, which comes with an integrated bracelet. At 39mm, the case houses an automatic movement with 41 hours of power reserve and offers 100m of water resistance. Sure, there are better alternatives in the affordable mechanical sports watch segment, especially if we think of Seiko or Tissot, but as Casio’s first step into this territory, it’s a good move, and maybe even a good starting point for someone to enter the watch game. More info at the official website.
Cartier Tank Américaine
Okay, you know I have a soft spot for Cartier Tank watches. I’ve said it once, and I’ll say it again… I blame Tyler and the art series I’m working on for that. The Tank Américaine, which follows the classic Tank design but with an elongated case, joined the collection in the late 80s and has come in many variations throughout the years. This time, in an exclusive European edition limited to 120 pieces, it comes in a platinum case measuring 24.4mm in width and 44.4mm in length. Using a technique known as camaïeu, the beautiful geometric dial plays with different shades of blue arranged in linear patterns, capturing the minimalism and elegance of Art Deco design. To ensure there are no distractions, the signature railway minutes track has been removed. Inside is an automatic movement with a 40-hour power reserve. It’s a beauty, but since it’s limited, we might already be late to the table anyway, so how about the vintage model instead?
Vacheron Constantin Overseas Perpetual Calendar Ultra-Thin
The Swiss maker’s Overseas line has, since its introduction, been the brand’s vision of what a luxury sports watch should be, and there’s a reason for that: it’s a damn good-looking sports watch. While there are many variations in the line, the Perpetual Calendar Ultra-Thin, introduced in 2016, stood out to us from the start. Now, Vacheron Constantin brings it back in two new editions: full pink gold and white gold with a burgundy dial. Otherwise, the specs remain the same. The case of 41.5mm that wears smaller on the wrist, thanks to its most important feature – a thickness of just 8.1mm. Inside beats an automatic movement with a 40-hour power reserve, displaying not only the time but also a perpetual calendar with day, date, month, leap year, and moonphase, while still offering 50m of water resistance. Don’t get us wrong, the white gold version is nice and all, but the pink gold model just hits different. More details here.
Omega Seamaster Diver 300M
We have to admit, from time to time, we lose track of all the Seamaster Diver releases. In just the past half year, several new variations have been introduced. And that’s not a bad thing, as we believe the Swiss watchmaker knows exactly what it’s doing. But these two models caught our eye. Does this mean we’re slowly getting more into gold watches? The first comes in 18k Sedna rose gold, the second in 18k Moonshine yellow gold. Sedna gold, introduced in 2012, was designed to keep its rose hue longer, while Moonshine gold is a paler shade of yellow thanks to its unique mix of metals (palladium, among others). Both versions feature a polished ceramic dial with Omega’s signature wave pattern. The yellow gold version comes with a contrasting black bezel, dial, and strap, while the pink gold with a white dial and a brown rubber strap. Same as the rest of the line, both measure 42mm, arguably not for everyone, but even on my wrist, they wear surprisingly well. Inside is Omega’s automatic movement with a 55-hour power reserve. And if we had to pick from the Seamaster Diver line today, these would be right at the top of the list. More details at the Omega’s website.
TAG Heuer Carrera Astronomer
From the beginning, the TAG Heuer Carrera has been all about speed and performance, a racetrack tool watch, a chronograph for drivers. Over the years, it has also moved into different worlds, from aviation to yachting, and appeared in various styles. But measuring moon phases? That’s something new, but not the brand itself entirely, especially if we look at the brand’s other lines, especially from the 40s and 50s, they show a different side of the Swiss watchmaker. The Astronomer comes in a 39mm case with 100 meters of water resistance, but what sets it apart from other Moonphase watches is that it doesn’t just show one phase, but all seven lunar stages across the full 29.5-day cycle. The disc that displays the stages synchronises every night to stay in rhythm with Earth’s satellite. Now that’s a scientific, modern take on one of watchmaking’s oldest complications. It comes in three versions: a silver dial with black flange, framing the moon disc in monochrome contrast; a silver dial with grey flange, giving a contemporary tone; and a third with rose gold indices, hands, and flange. All are available either on a bracelet or a supple leather strap. While we appreciate the complication for its nerdiness, the display feels a bit chaotic for us. Find out more about this model here.
IWC Curated
And on another note, worth mentioning is that one of our favourites, IWC, has launched a curated selection of Restored and Certified Vintage watches, available in selected boutiques. This reflects the rise of certified pre-owned programs from other brands. What is even more important is that it’s not about offering a big selection of pre-owned models, but rather focusing on truly vintage and historically important pieces. And that’s exactly what we love. Maybe it’s finally time for Graham to get his vintage IWC Ingenieur. Get more info at the boutique in Copenhagen.
Becoming a watch nerd?
- Cartier – quick history – In 1903, Cartier redefined timepieces by creating what many consider the first wristwatch. Louis-François Cartier’s friend, pilot Alberto Santos-Dumont, had complained about the difficulty of reading time while flying. In response, Cartier designed a small, practical wristwatch suited for pilots. Named the Santos de Cartier, this wristwatch featured a distinctive square face, a difference from the traditional round pocket watch, making it both comfortable and functional for flying. Though it sparked debate on being the ‘first’, it’s widely seen as the first pilot watch, available to the public in 1911.
- Moonphase function – displays the sunlit portion of the moon as observed from Earth at any given point during each 29.5-day lunar month.
- Movement – can be automatic/self-winding, manual winding or quartz and is what keeps the watch going.
- Perpetual calendar – a watch uses a complex system of gears and levers to automatically adjust and display the correct date, accounting for different month lengths and leap years, making manual date adjustments unnecessary for many years.
- Power reserve – how long the watch can show you the time when it’s not on your wrist.
- Tank model – The Cartier Tank is inspired by a military combat vehicle Renault (seen from overhead) that helped the French army succeed during World War I., it goes back to 1917 and has become a staple for Cartier as a brand with only a few design changes throughout its existence.
- Self-winding (mechanical) movement – (or automatic) – has a mechanism which winds the mainspring using the natural motions of the wearer’s body. The watch contains an oscillating weight that turns on a pivot.
- Vacheron Constantin – Founded in 1755, Vacheron Constantin is the world’s oldest watchmaker in continuous operation. From early decorative engravings to ultra-thin movements and complex complications, the brand has always pushed boundaries. The 222 in the ‘70s, now with its rerelease and the Overseas today prove its ability to evolve while staying true to refined craftsmanship that remains a benchmark of high watchmaking.
- Water resistance – refers to a watch’s ability to withstand exposure to water without damage. It is measured in meters (m), atmospheres (ATM), or bars, indicating the depth or pressure the watch can endure. However, these measurements are theoretical and don’t always equate to actual diving depths. 30m (3 ATM): Splash-proof, suitable for everyday use but not for swimming. 50m (5 ATM): Safe for showering or light swimming. 100m (10 ATM): Suitable for swimming and snorkelling. 200m+ (20 ATM or more): Ideal for professional diving or water sports.
