Spring finally seems to have arrived this week and so what better time to sip a cocktail in the sun? If that’s on the agenda, then check out a very cool fashion take on some cognac. Whilst doing that, maybe spin a bit of vinyl using a (probably insanely expensive) turntable and ruminate on more fashion job switches and more ugly shoes. Here is this week’s news…
Creative Director Musical Chairs
The state of play with the luxury world’s game of ‘let’s swap designers’ is currently so complicated that we think we are going to set up an interactive spreadsheet to keep up to date. This week saw Demna leave Balenciaga to go to Gucci (so expect giant-sized snaffle loafers and red and green tracksuits soon). It was not a universally lauded decision though – Gucci’s shares dropped 7% the day after. And no word of a replacement though we think Galliano could nail this one. Elsewhere Donatella stepped down from Versace – a big if rather symbolic move (we don’t imagine she put pen to paper so often) and Jonathan Anderson finally announced he is leaving Loewe. Sad faces all around but he’s going to do amazing at Dior (allegedly…) and his replacements – ex-Proenza Schouler duo Jack McCollough and Lazaro Hernandez – have the chops to do well in his old role.
Loewe x Hennessy
Talking of Loewe, the phenomenally successful Spanish brand this week launched a special edition of Hennessy cognac, presented in a rather wonderful knotted leather jacket that resembles a chestnut burr (referencing the chestnut wood barrels used to store the spirit). Made from 850 separate strands of hide, the case comes in three colours and, for the real booze hounds, is also offered in a three-litre jeroboam size too. It’s actually great to see someone approach this kind of collaboration with real effort and craftsmanship rather than just decorating a bottle or redesigning the label.
Sneaker-loafers?!
Whilst we took a merciful break from Croc horrors over the cold weather, the footwear world is not letting us forget ugly shoes with a barrage of sneaker/loafer hybrids (‘Snoafers’? ‘Leakers’?? Let’s try not to give them a name.) What is rather sad about this trend is that it involves some of our favourite brands. First off was New Balance – our mainstay for dad-core – and their 1906 mash-ups (which even Junya Watanabe couldn’t make cool), then Robin’s beloved G.H. Bass came up with some absolute horrors. Now it’s the turn of Converse and their version. To be fair, these aren’t quite as lumpy and clumsy as the Ugg ones (which we can’t even bear to mention) but guys, PLEASE MAKE THIS STOP.
Saint Laurent x Bang & Olufsen
Back on a much more stylish and classy footing is another collaboration between Saint Laurent and Bang & Olufsen – quite a natural (and long-term) partnership considering both houses’ dedication to quality and design. This week sees the launch of Saint Laurent’s reworking of the classic Beogram 4000 turntable from the 1970s where just ten original pieces have been restored using ziricote wood and aluminium and the most up-to-date technological expertise. Needless to say, they are only available in the Paris and LA stores with prices not mentioned at all. As they say, if you need to ask, you can’t afford…
Dickies x Tripster
Another collab that makes sense is the continued partnership between workwear brand Dickies and Japanese architect agency/clothing brand Tripster. Now on their seventh outing together, they have just released a suit that works as well on the street as it does in the office (though probably more an ad agency rather than Wall Street mercifully). Loose fitting and boxy with tapered pants, it’s a pretty cool silhouette and very good value too. Our one niggle? 100% polyester isn’t so comfortable to wear all day and smacks a little toooo much of supermarket uniforms.
