We know… it took us a minute. But there’s a reason for that. With all the novelties, new complications and all the new technologies introduced during Watches & Wonders 2025, we had to let it all sit for a bit. We could’ve written a novel about all the great things introduced there, but instead, we tried to pick the ones where we genuinely appreciate what’s inside, but also those we’d actually like to have on our wrists. You know, a good looker is a good looker… Don’t get us wrong, we love everything about ‘haute horlogerie’, but nerdiness aside – it’s a balance, and when it’s on the wrist, it still needs to feel like us.
Cartier Tank Á Guichets
With the horological archive Cartier has, it only makes sense to go back in time and revisit some of the designs. For this year’s W&W, the brand brought back a beloved (and very rare) model from the 1920s, now with a new movement and a return to its original shape, introduced in two versions. One stays true to the original (in yellow gold), and the other is a modern reinterpretation, released as a limited edition in platinum. Inside is a hand-wound movement that features a jumping hour function. Tyler, The Creator is probably already queuing for this one… and honestly, Cartier, we wouldn’t mind at least the yellow gold version on our wrist too.
Patek Philippe Calatrava 6196P
This Patek Philippe Calatrava with its salmon dial, black hands and indices is simply a beautiful dress watch. Like the previous models, it features the iconic 3-part case with a flat-edged bezel, now sized at 40mm. Inside ticks a new manual-winding movement with a stop-seconds mechanism and a boosted power reserve of 65 hours. While the case may seem too large for a dress watch, it’s still an exercise in perfection, and we think that, thanks to its design, it would just fit perfectly on a wrist. It’s something that Patek does really well. More info here.
Bulgari Octo Finissimo Ultra Tourbillon
For years, Bulgari has been one of the few (actually only three, together with Piaget and Richard Mille) watchmakers pushing boundaries and chasing the title for the world’s thinnest watches. And this year, Bulgari did it again with the world’s thinnest tourbillon, measuring an almost absurd 1.85mm. That’s just about a millimetre thicker than your credit card! It marks the brand’s 10th world record whilst, for the second time, breaking it in the tourbillon category. It’s a unique piece not just for its dimensions but for the design itself, and yes, it still manages to pack a 50-hour power reserve, all in this tiny size… For more, visit Bulgari’s website.
Jaeger-LeCoultre Reverso Tribute Monoface Small Seconds
The Swiss watchmaker used W&W to introduce new takes (or updates, really) on the Reverso line, including fresh versions of the Tribute Small Seconds, both in Monoface and Duoface layouts. For us, it’s all about the Monoface in 18k rose gold with a matching Milanese bracelet. This new version joins other similar models in the line, both in steel and rose gold, but comes instead with a grained texture on the dial and a mesh-style bracelet with a sliding clasp. Inside ticks a hand-wound movement with a 42-hour power reserve. Just put it on Robin’s wrist already… though Graham wouldn’t say no either. More info here.
Tag Heuer Formula 1 Solargraph
Back in 1986, TAG Heuer introduced the Formula 1. A colourful, entry-level quartz watch rooted in the brand’s car racing heritage. To mark its return as F1’s official timekeeper, the brand has now brought it back in a solar-powered version, building on last year’s hit collab with Kith (which sold out instantly). The case slightly increased from the original 35mm of the 80s model to 38mm (still a good size) and keeps that same playful design. It comes in nine colours, on either steel bracelets or rubber straps, some of them in a limited edition. It’s definitely a fun watch to wear, but we are not just sure about the price tag… Available here.
Piaget Polo 79
Last year, for its 150th anniversary, Piaget made a bold move and brought back one of its most iconic watches, the Polo 79 (introduced in 1979, hence the name). The new watch reflects its original shape in a full-on gold attire, with a case, dial, and bracelet decorated with horizontal gadroons, marking the brand’s legacy when it comes to watches of extraordinary shapes. This year, Piaget tones it down just a bit with a ‘more discreet’ white gold version, keeping it at the same specs: 38mm in diameter and just 2.35mm thick. It’s not something we would wear daily, but for a special occasion? Damn, yes! Yellow or white gold, maybe both? More info at the official website.
The IWC Ingenieur Automatic 35
Following the launch of the modern take on the IWC Ingenieur two years ago, the brand now responds with a smaller version, and we’re here for it. Sized down to 35mm, the new line-up includes two steel models with either a white or black dial, and a third in full rose gold. And we are here for that. As with the others, it comes with a distinct grid pattern on the dial, and all three versions have a display caseback showing off the automatic movement with a 42-hour power reserve. Alongside these, there’s also a new 40mm rose gold model with a black dial, which is equally good-looking, just with a better movement inside, and a larger 42mm version featuring the brand’s perpetual calendar. But for us? That‘s the 35mm gold one… yes, please.
Nomos Club Sport Worldtime
If you know a little about us, you know we like Nomos Club Sport watches. And while Nomos has been pretty consistent over the past few years, this one came as a nice surprise. The new models are built on the brand’s existing worldtimer concept that has been in the brand’s portfolio for years, now reworked into the Club Sport line with a new automatic movement offering 72 hours of power reserve. It stays true to the rest of the line with 100m water resistance and comes in eight different colours. Probably the best value proposition of the entire W&W, especially considering it’s a true in-house travel movement. More info on the official website.
A. Lange & Söhne 1815 34mm
Another great dress watch we loved, and not just because of its 34mm size. But let’s be honest, that’s where dress watches should be at… With a new calibre offering a 72-hour power reserve, it’s a modern classic that combines true ‘haute horlogerie’ with style and design. Available in white or rose gold, both with a navy blue dial, and at just 6.4mm thick, it’ll sit perfectly on any wrist. More info via the official website.
Afterthoughts:
Rolex didn’t make it to our favourites this year… While we admire what’s inside the new Rolex Land-Dweller – it’s a great achievement for the brand, we just couldn’t get over the dial. The case and bracelet, though, inspired by the 80s OysterQuartz, are spot on. Maybe it’s just us?
Tudor did well this year, too, especially when it comes to specs. With the new Pelagos, they’ve pushed things further – now in a 43mm case with a METAS-certified Master Chronometer movement and water resistance up to 1000m. What really caught our eye, though, is the new clasp system with a visual indicator… yes, lume on the bracelet. We didn’t see that coming.
Overall, aside from all the new complications and movements, this year was really about the bracelets. Rolex’s new Settimo bracelet on the Perpetual 1908 is gorgeous-looking (we do wish the watch was a bit smaller…), Reverso’s Milanese bracelet is something else too, and Tudor’s new clasp with lume is a clever (or too watch-nerdy?) touch. And it’s not just about new bracelet designs; many other models have been simply put on bracelets now. You know we’re all for that.
Becoming a watch nerd?
- Watches & wonders – W&W – is the luxury watch industry’s preeminent annual event, a watch fair, showcasing new releases from over 50 top brands.
- Haute horlogerie (high watchmaking) – the world of fine craftsmanship, where every detail, finish, and movement is carefully considered, often made and decorated by hand. It’s not only about a watch’s functions or complications, but about heritage, skills and creating something exceptional. More than a watch, it’s an art form of watchmaking.
- Jumping hour – a watch complication where the hour doesn’t slowly move, it jumps… Instead of traditional hour hands, the hour is shown through a small window (called an aperture), and it snaps to the next number exactly when the minute hand hits 60. It’s a clean, graphic way to tell time, often found in more design-driven or vintage-inspired pieces.
- Movement – can be automatic/self-winding, manual winding or quartz and is what keeps the watch going.
- Calatrava – Patek Philippe – introduced in 1932, considered by many as ‘the one’ when it comes to dress watches. The name comes from the Calatrava cross, the brand’s emblem, which you can usually find on the crown or caseback. Over the years, it’s stayed true to its roots: slim profile, elegant lines. It’s the kind of watch that does everything quietly and perfectly. You can call it ‘quiet luxury’.
- Complications – is any function on a watch that goes beyond telling the time (from calendars and alarms to tourbillons and time zones).
- Hands – little ‘pointy’ parts that move across the dial to tell the time. From hours, minutes, and seconds, to sometimes even more. Depending on the watch, they come in all shapes and styles.
- Indices – markers around the dial that help you read the time. They can be in the form of numbers, dots, or batons…
- Bezel – the part of the watch case that surrounds the watch glass, serving as a protective guard and as an aesthetic frame. Rotating dive watch bezels help to track a diver’s bottom time – the total time spent underwater – a reminder to prevent divers from exceeding their diving time with limited oxygen.
- Tourbillon – is a French word for whirlwind, that describes the frenetic motion of the rotating cage, oscillating balance wheel and balance spring while the movement is running. This cage, which rotates typically once per minute, aims to counteract the effects of gravity on the movement. It’s a complication designed to improve accuracy by counteracting the effects of gravity on the movement.
- IWC Ingenieur – was born in the mid-50s as a watch designed for engineers working in magnetic environments (thus the name), the IWC Ingenieur is mostly known for its redesign by Gerald Genta in the 70s, using his classic sports watch concept with an integrated bracelet. Some of the most popular models came out in the late 80s and early 90s, now with the latest version released in 2023.
- Perpetual calendar – a watch uses a complex system of gears and levers to automatically adjust and display the correct date, accounting for different month lengths and leap years, making manual date adjustments unnecessary for many years.
- Calibre 7135 by Rolex – On paper, even though the brand is being ‘shy’ about it, is the most accurate mechanical movement on the market, easily beating the brand’s already very impressive movements.
- Meta-certified – means a watch passed the strict tests set by the Swiss Federal Institute of Metrology. It checks not just accuracy in different positions and temperatures, but also resistance to magnetic fields up to 15,000 gauss. A seal of high performance and reliability.
- Chronometer – means that the watch must be able to stay within a 5-second range of variation each day throughout its power reserve
