Is it an urge to be offline, to go back to the analogue era, or simply a kind of nostalgia? Or is it the fashion trend of the past few years, revisiting the ’50s through the ’90s? Or maybe it’s because we are thinking more sustainably and looking for vintage pieces instead of buying new? Or is it simply that we finally realised smaller watches with timeless design just look better on the wrist? We, at The Editors, think it’s a mix of it all.
Whatever the actual reasons may be, the past two years have seen a significant rise in demand for vintage watches. Celebrities and artists have always played their part, wearing certain watches that influenced us. In fact, I believe it’s often one of the factors in decision-making when we pick a watch. It’s about the person we look up to, admire, or perhaps even imagine ourselves in their role. Even before the current ‘boom’ of vintage watches, there were already a few names wearing interesting older pieces… Tyler, the Creator, as one example (read this article), with his extensive Cartier collection. And lately, a younger generation of actors, such as Jacob Elordi (with his Audemars Piguet Bamboo “Jumbo” Day-Date), or Timothée Chalamet, have been spotted wearing rare or unique models on their wrists.
Online searches for vintage pieces have gone noticeably up, with Cartier and its iconic models Tank, Santos and Panthère leading the list. At the same time, large watch groups understood the demand and launched Certified Pre-Owned programs, followed by Swiss watchmakers offering similar services within their own portfolios. That alone proves this is not just a short-term hype, but rather a shift in mindset. It feels like we’re going back to where it should be: watches once again serving not only as jewellery or accessories but as tools to tell time and as an expression of personal style.
But where to look for such vintage pieces? As demand grows, so does the risk of counterfeits or watches with non-original parts. It’s also important to keep in mind that vintage watches may require more frequent servicing and that certain parts can be harder to source. That’s why a good first step is to look at certified offerings: not only has the watch been serviced and checked to work as it should, but it also comes with a warranty, much like a new watch would.
And then, what piece should you pick? While it’s always about personal preferences, we have a good overview of what people tend to wear and like, so we’ve put together a selection as a starting point. From there, it’s all up to you.
Becoming a watch nerd?
Some facts
Cartier has emerged as the go-to brand for the new generation, reshaping what modern luxury looks like and dominating global resale charts. The strongest demand is for compact, gold, or leather-strap dress watches from the ’80s and ’90s.
Chrono24’s Secondary Watch Market Report last year showed Cartier’s share of transactions increasing from 1.7% to 6.8% over seven years, with key drivers being the Tank, Santos Galbée, and Panthère.
While many vintage watches retain or even grow in value, not every model is a guaranteed investment. Condition, provenance, and the exact reference matter a lot.
Certified Pre-Owned (CPO) – A service that allows you to buy a second-hand watch from a brand or a watch group that is serviced, repaired and tested under laboratory conditions and then certified as having passed those tests within certain ranges of accuracy and precision. It comes with a warranty and papers to ensure its authenticity and its past records.
Cartier – quick history – In 1903, Cartier redefined timepieces by creating what many consider the first wristwatch. Louis-Francois Cartier’s friend, pilot Alberto Santos-Dumont, had complained about the difficulty of reading time while flying. In response, Cartier designed a small, practical wristwatch suited for pilots. Named the Santos de Cartier, this wristwatch featured a distinctive square face, a difference from the traditional round pocket watch, making it both comfortable and functional for flying. Though it sparked debate on being the ‘first’, it’s widely seen as the first pilot watch, available to the public in 1911.
Santos-Dumont (Cartier) – a watch named after Brazilian aviator Alberto Santos-Dumont, who requested that Louis Cartier create a timepiece that would let him check the time without taking his hands off the controls. It resulted in the men’s first wristwatch in 1904.
Panthère de Cartier – When Cartier introduced the watch in 1983, it didn’t feature a panther itself, but rather got inspired and echoed the emblematic animal’s effortless movement to an ultra-flexible bracelet. The watch became a big hit throughout the 80s and 90s, however, the house decided to discontinue the whole collection in 2004, replacing it instead by the more sporty Cartier Santos Demoiselle, which lacked, however, the refinement of the original Panthère de Cartier. In 2017, Cartier made headlines by announcing the return of the collection.
Tank model – The Cartier Tank is inspired by a military combat vehicle Renault (seen from overhead) that helped the French army succeed during World War I., it goes back to 1917 and has become a staple for Cartier as a brand, with only a few design changes throughout its existence.
IWC – IWC Schaffhausen, founded in 1868 by American watchmaker Florentine Ariosto Jones, is a Swiss luxury watch manufacturer based in Schaffhausen. Jones planned to combine Swiss craftsmanship with modern engineering and hydropower sourced from the nearby Rhine to produce high-quality watches. The brand has a long tradition of innovation and is known for applying engineering to watchmaking. Over its history, IWC has developed many iconic families, including pilot’s watches, Portugieser, Ingenieur and pioneered materials such as ceramic and titanium.
IWC Ingenieur – was born in the mid-50s as a watch designed for engineers working in magnetic environments (thus the name), the IWC Ingenieur is mostly known for its redesign by Gerald Genta in the 70s, using his classic sports watch concept with an integrated bracelet. Some of the most popular models came out in the late 80s and early 90s, now with the latest version released in 2023.
JLC – Jaeger-LeCoultre, the Swiss watchmaker, was founded in 1833 by Antoine LeCoultre in the Vallée de Joux, becoming the region’s first true Manufacture by bringing every aspect of watchmaking under one roof. In 1844, LeCoultre invented the Millionomètre, at the time the most precise measuring instrument in watchmaking, along with a keyless system for winding and setting watches. In 1903, a collaboration between Jacques-David LeCoultre and French watchmaker Edmond Jaeger brought together Swiss technical expertise and French design, and the company later adopted the name Jaeger-LeCoultre in 1937. Over the years, the Maison has developed thousands of calibres and registered hundreds of patents, earning a reputation for serious technical know-how. Models such as the Reverso remain one of the most recognisable and well-designed watches ever made.
Reverso watch (Jaeger-LeCoultre) – This model was not the first reversible case design. A few years earlier, Universal Genève was already offering its Le Cabriolet model, also in a rectangular case, though based on a different principle. What set the Reverso apart, introduced in 1931, was its sliding case mechanism, originally designed to protect the dial during polo matches. Over time, that practical solution became a design signature, and in later developments, some Reverso models introduced a double-face design, allowing two dials on one watch. Today, the Reverso stands less as a sports watch and more as a design icon, still rooted in its original idea.
Vacheron Constantin – Founded in 1755, Vacheron Constantin is the world’s oldest watchmaker in continuous operation. From early decorative engravings to ultra-thin movements and complex complications, the brand has always pushed boundaries. The 222 in the ‘70s, now with its rerelease and the Overseas today prove its ability to evolve while staying true to refined craftsmanship that remains a benchmark of high watchmaking.
Audemars Piguet – founded in 1875 in the Vallée de Joux, Switzerland, by friends Jules Louis Audemars and Edward Auguste Piguet, remains one of the few independent, family-owned Swiss watchmakers. Early on, the company specialised in complicated watches and precision mechanisms, producing some of the first minute repeaters, perpetual calendar movements and in 1934, the first skeleton watch. The brand is best known for the Royal Oak, introduced in 1972, designed by Gérald Genta, one of the first high-end luxury sports watches in stainless steel, which profoundly influenced the industry.
