We Editors love a glass or two of wine and have a good idea of what we like and don’t like, but we also know we sometimes need a bit of help making a choice. That’s why we have learned to listen to a sommelier and explore a little rather than just sticking to our usual favourites. Copenhagen has many great experts, but Mattia Spedicato, founder of Italian wine specialists ViaVino, is one of the very best, so we sat down with him to pick his brains on what he knows and where he goes (all over a nice bottle of something crisp and cold obviously…)
Saluti Mattia! Tell us, how did you get to be a sommelier?
I’m originally from Italy, and I grew up surrounded by food and wine – not in a cliché way, but in the everyday sense where wine is part of the table and culture. I started working in restaurants early on and gradually moved from service to wine, where I found a real passion for storytelling and connection. Becoming a sommelier was never just about certifications or formal titles for me; it was a natural progression shaped by curiosity, experience and working alongside some incredible professionals. I’ve had the chance to work at the highest level and refine my approach. Most recently, I took on the role of Restaurant Manager at Marchal, inside the renowned Hotel d’Angleterre, while continuing to pursue in my spare time, my passion for wine through my own project, ViaVino.
What do you look for in a wine bar? What makes one special?
For me, a great wine bar has personality. It’s about a clear point of view. I look for places where the staff genuinely love what they pour and where there’s a balance between accessibility and quality. Good energy, a simple but well-thought food offering and wines that tell stories, that’s the magic. Bonus points if they pour by the glass things that make you curious or even slightly uncomfortable (in a good way).
Where do you stand on the whole natural/conventional wine discussion?
I’ll start by quoting something a winemaker friend of mine once said: “There are four types of wine: white, red, good, and bad.” And honestly, I think that’s the truth.
I love wines that are made with respect for nature, for the land and for the people who drink them. That often means low-intervention but never at the expense of quality. For me, a good wine is a good wine. I taste with an open mind and a glass. That said, I really admire producers who take risks to express something pure and alive. You’ll find many of those wines at ViaVino, not because it’s trendy, but because they reflect the passion, ideas, and sacrifices winemakers pour into their work year after year, despite all the risks involved.
Do you have any recommendations for great wines for a summer glass or two in the sun?
If I have to think internationally, I’d say you can never go wrong with a crisp Riesling from the Mosel in Germany – bright, elegant, and full of energy. But if I’m looking for something a bit more out of the classics, I love a chilled glass of Vinho Verde from Portugal — light, zesty, and super refreshing, especially on a hot day. And if I stay true to my roots: not many people know this, but Puglia, where I’m from in Italy, also produces some beautiful white wines. A well-made Verdeca is fresh, mineral, and surprisingly versatile. Perfect on its own or with some seafood and sun.
Where are your favourite wine places in Copenhagen?
We’re spoiled in Copenhagen. Ved Stranden 10 is always a favourite with its beautiful setting and impressive wine selection. I also really like Bar Poldo for its energy and strong Italian vibe, and Botti for that cosy, laid-back feeling with great wine and food. Liquo is also great for its modern setting next to the park, its Italian atmosphere and as a great spot to start or finish the night before or after a pizza at Surt. Not many know this, but there’s also a bit of a hidden gem in the city centre: The Vault. It’s not a wine bar, but a private wine club. If you love wine and collect it, you can become a member and enjoy an exclusive, tailored atmosphere, perfect for both business and pleasure.
And finally, where do you like to eat in the city?
I’m a simple guy, I just like good food with character. When it comes to regional Italian, Paesàno, Boutique Emilia, Fojetta, and Piola are always on my list. Each of them brings something different, but they all feel authentic and honest. For pizza, I’m a big fan of MaMeMi and Surt, top quality and no fuss.
If I’m in the mood for Danish classics, Møntergade and Palægade are always solid, full of charm, tradition, and proper Danish hospitality.
And for something a bit more refined, one of Copenhagen’s hidden fine dining gems is Mielcke & Hurtigkarl: creative, elegant, and quietly unforgettable.
Quick Summary – Mattia’s tips
- Ved Stranden 10 – a favourite with its beautiful setting and impressive wine selection
- Bar Poldo – for its energy and strong Italian vibe
- Botti – for that cosy, laid-back feeling with great wine and food
- Liquo – a modern setting next to the park with an Italian atmosphere, also a great spot to start or finish the night before or after a pizza at Surt
- Paesàno, Boutique Emilia, Fojetta, and Piola – always on Mattia’s list when it comes to regional Italian food
- Mielcke & Hurtigkarl – one of Copenhagen’s hidden fine dining gems
- Møntergade – if in the mood for Danish classics
