Before the advent of New Nordic cooking, Denmark’s most famous contribution to the culinary world was the humble smørrebrød or open sandwich. Actually, despite their prosaic reputation, they can be pretty fantastic: lower carbs as they only have one slice of (usually rye) bread, super tasty with toppings of fish, meat, prawns or egg and, with no cover on them, much more scope to make really attractive. Traditionally (but not exclusively) eaten at lunchtime with a beer or two or maybe a glass of Schnapps or Aquavit if you don’t intend to go back to the office, smørrebrød are a true Danish experience. Here are some of our favourite places.
Schonneman
For over 150 years, this place has been serving up traditional smørrebrød on Royal Copenhagen plates in a room that feels like it stepped out of a Hammershoi painting. Don’t expect any deconstructions or avant-garde flavour combos – this is how your Danish grandma would make it if she had fantastic ingredients and a real talent for quality.
📍 Hauser Plads 16, City centre | @estaurantschonnemann
Selma
The room might be a little boring (make sure you get a table upstairs, not in the basement) but the dishes here are elevated to little masterpieces on your plate. There is a big emphasis on fish here – the versions with smoked herring are marvellous – and everything is of top quality. The fashion crowd, needless to say, love it here.
📍 Rømersgade 20, City centre | @selma_copenhagen
Frk. Barners kælder
Another traditional place – think dark wood, gingham tablecloths and hearty portions – this place serves up no-nonsense smørrebrød such as hønsesalad (a great umami chicken mix) and shrimps with egg. But it is all very well done, especially when accompanied by their own brand of Schnapps.
📍 Helgolandsgade 8, Vesterbro | @Frk_barners
Møntergade
Probably our favourite, this light and classy corner spot does wonderful food with great service and always a buzzing crowd. Come at midday, choose two or three favourites with a glass of their own barrel-aged aquavit and pretend you are a lady-who-lunches for the whole afternoon (maybe moving to the bar to finish with more wine).
📍 Møntergade 19, City centre | @montergade
Restaurant Lola
Tucked away on a back street of leafy Christianshavn, this place almost feels like a cottage in the country and is a lovely spot, especially in the summer when you can sit on the terrace in the sun. Lola offers some more international and modern takes on smørrebrød – herring comes with a Japanese touch and a few spicy tastes of India appear along the way – but more traditional versions are there too.
📍Christianshavns Voldgade 54, Christianshavn | @restaurantlola
Restaurant Væksthuset
Only in Copenhagen would the entrance to an underground car park look so beautiful. A spectacular spiral staircase leads up into a completely glass-enclosed cafe that includes tropical trees and the obligatory blond wood furnishings where work-of-art smørrebrød is served at lunchtime. The plates are great, the wine excellent and the view across the stunning planted park towards the harbour makes your heart melt.
📍 Ekvipagemestervej 18, Copenhagen 1438 | @vaeksthuset_operaparken
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