You could be forgiven for thinking that Fashion Week is pretty much a permanent fixture as the season spans multiple cities over nearly two months but with Paris in the bag, the marathon is done. At least until June… Milan and Paris this time were centred around womenswear (though you all know we don’t believe in those kind of labels here on The Editors) but there were plenty of guys on the runway and plenty of things we loved. These are some of our favorites…
Balenciaga
After a tumultuous couple of months (all of their own making) Balenciaga put aside all the theatrics (and FINALLY the logos) and did a pared down show that was full of beautiful and mostly wearable clothes. The idea of making jackets and coats from upside down trousers is a bit contrived but this trench-coat with waistband details at the hem and cuffs is VERY desirable.
The Row
Sadly The Row doesn’t show its official menswear collection on the runway but their minimalist, uber-luxurious and insanely expensive womenswear works just as well for us. Entirely bereft of all details beyond a leather tie cord belt, you just know this coat feels as good as it looks. And it probably costs the same as an apartment so will stay in our dream wardrobe for now.
Bottega Veneta
Matthieu Blazy is really getting into his stride at the helm of Bottega Veneta. Always the byword for craftsmanship and a somewhat intellectual approach to design, the brand excels in understated luxury and good taste. We absolutely loved this (very) long-line knit and boiler suit, both worn convincingly over a simple shirt and tie. Same goes for the loose fit shirt (in leather) and, talking about skin, the long beige coat is just dreamy.
Ferragamo
A brand that has struggled to find its groove over the past, Ferragamo has had revolving doors when it comes to designers. The current creative director, English Maximilian Davis is trying to carve out a signature look involving very precise tailoring that appeals to both men and women. We loved the coat-with-VERY-short-shorts and this one-and-a-half breasted navy suit with flashes of white at the waist was appropriately severe yet elegant. Just a shame they didn’t do the final round of alterations though – those sleeves are a centimetre too long…
Jil Sander
We LOVE pink at The Editors so why not go the whole hog and wear it head to toe? It worked for the Pink Panther… A sly reference to Raf Simon’s seminal Jil Sander collection from years ago, this buttonless full length coat is utterly gorgeous and the wide pants cut deliberately too long win our total approval.
MM6 Maison Margiela
The darling of the creative set, MM6 had a stellar show this season and produced one of the best new coats we saw. This coat/jacket hybrid – working as two separate pieces or one combined – ticks all the trompe l’oeil MM boxes whilst also being damned fine tailoring. And we all need a pair of silver leather jeans in our wardrobe right?
Valentino
Funny how the tie seems to have reappeared on many runways but more as a symbol of youthful mod-style rebellion rather than office wear. This concept was maxed out in Valentino’s beautiful show where a black tie appeared on virtually every one of the tattooed, androgynous (and sadly, all very slim) models. There was much to love here but this bright green cropped peacoat shows there is still life in zoomer green and we wouldn’t say no to those two tone shoes either.
Onitsuka Tiger
Japanese heritage sneaker brand Onitsuka Tiger showed in Milan fashion week in a valiant attempt to offer a total look rather than just being known for Uma Thurman’s footwear in Kill Bill. There was some great outerwear (we loved this utility bomber jacket in silver though you can keep the leggings) but the evening wear seemed a little out of place. Snaps for the age-inclusive casting though.
