The twice yearly double-whammy of Paris and Milan mens fashion weeks has just finished and we saw a glimpse of what we might just be wearing this time next year (if we have deep pockets and good weather). Tailoring was back in force as were soft colours and short shorts but let’s have a look at what really caught our eye…
Fendi
A brand that seems to be going from strength to strength these days, Fendi showed as part of the Pitti Uomo trade fair and used their new factory on the outskirts of Florence as a dramatic location that highlighted craftsmanship. The collection veered a bit literal with too many leather aprons and tool belts but the more wearable looks were beautiful. Hats off to the American Gigolo tie-styling too.
Etro
For a summer season, SS24 seems remarkable for the lack of print and pattern but one brand who kept it flying was Etro – not surprising considering they started in Milan by producing paisley jacquard shawls. Saying true to their boho-lux roots, the collection was like a walk in a bazaar but we loved the more graphic print of this shirt.
Zegna
Another brand with a background in textiles (it started as a tailoring off-shoot of one of the best woollen mills in Italy), Zegna is now a by-word for stealth wealth luxury. With not a print or logo in sight, a huge percentage of the collection was made from linen giving everything a weightless and relaxed air. The colours were just beautiful too.
Valentino
Valentino’s Pier Paolo Piccioli is another master colourist so it was surprising to see his show open with a great deal of black and white. Not to worry though – it was followed by signature pink PP (as it is known on Pantone) and then softer mixes. Despite being based on divisive novel A Little Life, the collection was romantic and gentle and we loved this print shirt/short combo.
Hermès
Another standard for luxurious and sophisticated clothing (never anything as vulgar as fashion!), Hermes also went for loose shapes, soft hues – and very short shorts. Legs aside, the quality here is stunning as are the bags (if only we could afford…). And if you are going for a print in this very plain fabric season, it might as well be an Hermes scarf version right?
Dior
When it comes to opening a show, the Dior presentation was a stunner as fifty-one models rose simultaneously out of a silver tiled stage (google it!) causing Instagram overload. But the collection that followed matched the drama (not always the case this season) with riffs on Dior womenswear translated elegantly to mens. We loved the fabrications and the colour sense and the accessories – from bucket hats and brooches to very covetable shoes – were wonderful.
Dries van Noten
For Graham at least, this was the single best show of the season with a dreamy collection of soft tailoring, double-breasted jackets (big fashion news), superb colouration and just the right amount of whimsy. Every single outfit was a winner. And who said men can’t wear sequins? The glimpse of silver below that amazing jacket is just perfection. Genuinely the work of the master.
Louis Gabriel Nouchi
Nouchi was another designer who based his collection on a novel this season. His choice of inspiration was Christopher Isherwood’s A Simple Man and specifically the car crash that kills the protagonist’s lover at the beginning. This lead to some rather literal accessories (no one needs a driving wheel bag) but also some bold tailoring and wearable casual wear. We loved this all lemon outfit and, as always, the eclectic and shape/age diversity of his casting.
Solid Homme
Part of Korea’s Woo Young Mi stable, Solid Homme keeps quite a low profile on the fashion week calendar which is a bit of a shame as the clothes successfully balance the line between innovation and wearability. Exploring uniforms – particularly urban workwear – the collection showed some very desirable jackets and pants, all with a rather sweet nerdiness. One to keep your eye on.
Ami
Ami had such a great collection and show last winter (who can forget Charlotte Rampling in that slouchy coat suit?) that basically they seemed to repeat the whole thing but in summer fabrics and colours. Not a bad idea at all! The result was more oversized double-breasted suits and coats but in the most delicious colours. If it ain’t broke, then don’t fix it is a mantra too little used in the fashion world – after all, that’s how classics arise.
