Some scent profiles in the world of fragrances are pretty straightforward – for example, we all understand what rose, citrus, and cedar are as we have direct experience of them in the real world. But some, such as those labelled ‘mineral’ or ‘salt’ are a little more difficult to grasp: after all, minerals and salt don’t actually smell of anything. In these instances, we are off into a more experiential or conceptual field. It’s the art of creating fragrances that evoke something rather than mirror something: in this case, usually the feeling of freshness, sea spray, salt on the skin – all things that make them perfect for summer.
In the past, fragrance houses really focussed on natural ingredients – primarily flowers, plants and certain animal extracts – but over the past couple of decades, there have been more avant-garde niche brands experimenting with synthetic components and actually celebrating their artificial nature. Mineral fragrances tend to centre around calone, a chemical which mimics ozone with a bit of watermelon thrown in and ambroxan, which has a rich amber/musk smell which also evokes the coastline. However, leave the science to the men in white coats and just try them out and see which ones you like – artificial fragrances change a lot depending on your skin, so they need to be properly tested. Here are a few of our favourites right now.
Comme des Garçons – Odeur 53
First produced back in 1998, this was a vanguard of the whole artificial fragrance concept, bringing together such aromas as printer ink, petrol, rubber and white hot light bulbs!. Decades later, it still is a winner with many a fan amongst the black-wearing arty Comme set, even if it still has the power to disturb too.
Tom Ford – Oud Minérale
We LOVE this one. It mixes a chemical, salty aroma with warmer oud and seagrass to create something that works both day and night. It’s definitely beachy with a seaweed kick to it, but not in a musty way – more like a walk along Big Sur. Sexy bottle too.
Mizensir – Tonic Water
A little less avant-garde but still interesting is this one from Swiss perfumer Mizensir. The name led us to think it would be fresh and lemony (maybe gin and tonic was on our minds as always), but actually it is more complex than that, with salty calone mixed with more exotic aromas such as Sichuan pepper, cardamom and papyrus.
Maison Margiela Replica – Sailing Day
The clue is in the name here – we’ve left the beach and are most definitely on the ocean wave itself. It’s definitely got the chemical element of saltiness but with hints of something woody too (maybe the yacht decking?) and maybe even suntan lotion. Much less scary than being on a boat, too (Graham hates boats).
Jo Malone – Wood Sage and Sea Salt
Showing that salty mineral fragrances can have mass appeal, this easy and light offering from Jo Malone is office-friendly (it won’t upset anyone and is relatively subtle) but still interesting and fresh, though, on us, it didn’t last very long. Perfect for a midday freshen up when the sun is out!
