The world might be falling to pieces around us, but fashion still rolls on. However, despite doom, gloom and falling sales in the luxury sector, the recent menswear shows spread (primarily) over Milan and Paris had a real energy about them this time. Maybe it was spirit in the face of adversity, or fiddling whilst Rome burns or maybe even just the results of the past year’s creative director musical chairs having been mostly resolved, but a lot of brands were at the top of their game, showing commercial yet interesting collections that seemed…well… actually optimistic.
Colour was definitely back, shorts were still sky high, trousers were everything from very baggy to very slim and, perhaps surprisingly considering the USA is currently one of the uncoolest places on earth, preppy styling was evident all over the place. Milan had one of its strongest seasons for a while with Paul Smith showing a back-to-his-strength collection there instead of in his usual Paris location and… words we never thought we would type… Dolce and Gabbana actually did a great collection.
This was followed by Paris, where the headline news was two debuts – Julian Klausner doing menswear at Dries for the first time and, definitely THE big show this season, Jonathan Anderson’s first go at Dior. Both guys should take a bow for excellent collections. Elsewhere, Ami did a fabulous presentation that got lucky with the stormy weather that evening (it missed it by about 10 minutes), and Watanabe and Comme both delivered. But read on to find out who our favourites of the whole season were…
Paul Smith
Moving from his usual slot in Paris to Milan seemed to give Sir Paul a very welcome shot in the arm. To be honest, he is always going to shine in a season that embraces colour, but this was a confident and very well edited presentation that made us want to go out and buy something in shocking pink. Excellent styling made it all look effortless, too.
Dolce and Gabbana
Usually, Dolce and Gabbana are miles off our radar with their clichéd and flashy version of fake Italian style, but this season, wonders never cease! We really liked this collection, based mainly on pyjamas. It had a cool, sexy vibe that was surprisingly understated for the brand, though, of course, some serious editing could have been used: it didn’t need to be 94 exits long and the styling of accessories was very dated. Still, credit where credit is due…
Saint Laurent
Saint Laurent – another label that we expected to do well when it came to their use of colour – excelled this season with mouthwatering shades in really beautiful combinations. Razor sharp styling meant virtually everything had a neck tie of some sort (ties are the new rock n roll) and sunglasses with hands in pockets were de rigueur for a louche vibe. The mix of masculine and feminine was totally on point, too.
Dries Van Noten
Dries Van Noten’s decision not to bring in a star designer to replace the man himself but rather to promote from within the existing team seems to have paid off in spades. Julian Klausner’s first ever mens collection was simultaneously true to the house and a confident declaration of a new spirit. The desired clashing colours and prints, sumptuous fabrics and a touch of bohemian sexiness were all there, but with a strong sense of innovation that included jersey cummerbunds, tailored sleeveless tops and some great knitwear.
Wales Bonner
Despite being around for nearly a decade now, Wales Bonner has so far been more of an insider fashion brand rather than a household name but each season she pushes forward with more and more confidence in her own distinctive aesthetic, which can best be described as sartorial sportswear. This season was her strongest yet – buoyed perhaps by the Met Ball theme of Superfine: Tailoring Black Style, where Bonner dressed a handful of stars, with a fine mix of Savile Row and downtown Manhattan, with a big dose of preppy thrown in.
Louis Vuitton
As regular readers will know, we had yet to be convinced that Pharrell’s role as Creative Director behind LV Menswear was anything more than advertising budget hiding behind over-the-top theatre, but this season he (or at least his team) proved us wrong with a collection that was so wearable – and covetable – it was almost classic. For once, the clothes looked like something the man himself would wear (and that is a good thing, as he is definitely a stylish guy) with some great tailoring and smart detailing rather than flamboyant showmanship.
Dior
Undoubtedly, THE hot ticket of the season was the hysterically anticipated debut of Jonathan Anderson at the helm of Dior. Seen maybe as a soft opening (his first womenswear will be seen in October), this didn’t disappoint with a collection that was maybe less avant-garde than expected but very impressive in its multiple references and details that looked to both the famous Parisian house and his own aesthetic. Looking like 21st century versions of Byron or Bosie Douglas, the models mixed preppy, Avenue Montaigne, English boarding schools and street style. On paper, it shouldn’t have worked, but it definitely did. We can’t wait to see what Mr Anderson does next chez Dior.
