Over the past ten years, Copenhagen has built itself an almost mythical food scene, spearheaded of course by the likes of noma and Geranium but enlivened by the drip down effect of these trailblazers creating hundreds of great places to eat. The city is a foodie destination for tourists from all over the world but where do the locals eat? Here are some of my favorites (a list that changes pretty much on a weekly basis so don’t hold me to it).
Brasserie Prins
There is always a food trend in Copenhagen. It’s been sushi, tapas and antipasti in the past few years but now it is most certainly the time of classic French home cooking: at the moment you can’t move in the city for coq au vin and brasserie-style tables and chairs. New garçon on the block is Brasserie Prins which aims to do just the sort of grub your French grandma would cook if she were really really good at it. Fantastic food, cosy decor and welcoming, knowledgable staff make it the perfect date night location. And a vinyl collection for the music keeps it hipster.
Grimal
Another local restaurant helping to turn Vesterbro into a mini Pigalle is Grimal which opened quietly earlier this year. Little sibling to Frank and Polly – already firm favorites with the city’s foodies – this is a casual take on a brasserie serving the cuisine-de-jour of (relatively) simple French food. Grab a seat at the bar and tuck into oysters, tartar with mustard and delicious haddock in nage sauce all served by bright and friendly staff.
Osteria 16 Pesce
Clearly I am a very lazy diner as this is another place within about 100m of where I live but it’s SO good that I can’t not mention it. Antipasti restaurants were big local news a couple of years ago, each serving a set menu of about seven or eight small, beautifully cooked courses of unpretentious but insanely tasty Italian food. Not all survived (I still mourn the passing of the wonderful Spaghetteria) but this cosy corner mercifully did. The menu centres mainly around vegetables and fish so expect the likes of octopus carpaccio, scallops, bitter greens and salty baccala – it’s a world away from spag bol and garlic bread.
Alouette
Top of every serious Copenhagen food pilgrim’s list is obviously the likes of noma and Alchemist but even if you can get a reservation (dream on), expect to have to remortgage your apartment to pay for the admittedly stellar experience. A (marginally) cheaper Michelin starred option is the wonderful Alouette. Boasting one of the city’s most surprising locations (I won’t spoil the surprise but you won’t be the first to arrive and think where the fuck are we??), the restaurant, when you get in there, is gorgeous. The owner and head chef, American born Nick Curtin, is one of Copenhagen’s most charming hosts and serves extremely accomplished new Nordic fare that still remembers that it is food not just concept. A real gem.
Brasserie Saigon
It’s fabulous when dinner is a life changing experience but sometimes you just want somewhere round the corner (yes, lazy Graham again…) where the staff know your name and serve good priced comfort food that always delivers. Brasserie Saigon is just that place. With a laid back, jazz-soundtracked vibe, this family favorite is an eatery to go to on a Thursday evening when you don’t fancy cooking (I never fancy cooking) and want a Indochine style bowl of beef ragu, pork cheeks or pho bo. But you can also crank it up on a Saturday date night as they do some of the best oysters in town (oysters are HUGE in the city at the moment) and the frogs legs are pretty good too.
