A Spa Not So Far

Jet fuel prices, flight-shaming, airport chaos: it seems that a vacation can be as stressful as a day in the office at the moment – at least until you hit the beach. We all love the idea of a short break as a sort of rejuvenation exercise, but the effort and expense of air travel these days make us sometimes question whether it is all worth it. Sure, escaping Scandi winters requires some longer trips, but now that we are basking in our own sunny weather, the concept of a couple of nights just up the road seems rather tempting. Welcome to the world of almost-staycations – not staying at home exactly, but enjoying all the comforts of a good hotel only a short train ride away.

The Editors recently got the opportunity to do just that and take a local train just half an hour up the coast from Copenhagen to spend a couple of days at the grand-dame of Danish spas: the Kurhotel Skodsborg. Formerly the summer retreat of King Frederick VII, the large white building perched on the slopes above the Øresund has been some sort of health resort since 1898, and now is that great mix of healthy spa and luxury indulgence.

Unlike a lot of spa areas which often end up in the basement of a hotel, this is large and light-filled with enough different hydro-experiences, saunas, jacuzzis and steam-rooms to keep you entertained for a couple of hours and leave you shiny and clean.

If you are feeling spartan of spirit, wander down to the jetty for a spot of chilly sea swimming or walk up the coastal road to neighbouring little villages or into the vast woods behind. Or you can do what Graham loves to do when in a hotel, and that is have a late afternoon nap or read on the sofa, knowing that your only decisions later will concern food and beverage options. And whilst we totally understand the whole health element of a spa retreat, almost-staycations are about relaxing and enjoying yourself, so for us, it’s a no-no to places with alcohol bans and meals of lettuce and rice. 

Here we could hit that lounge bar for a martini, chow down on a three-course Nordic dinner with wine pairing and relax with a nightcap glass of something red on the balcony looking out over the sea. You might almost be able to see back home in the distance (with binoculars and a high-up room), but for a day or two, it feels as relaxing as a long weekend in Italy without the annoyance of a packed flight there and back.

What to pack and what to wear: Weekend’s Essentials

Spas are simultaneously relaxed and kinda fancy, so a cashmere in a nice colour ticks both boxes, taking you from bar and restaurant to that late evening chilly walk. It’s not cheap, but hey, you saved on a flight, remember?

Whilst having your late afternoon rest, why not continue treating your skin with this face mask? It’s the perfect finishing touch to your post-sauna post-steam routine (and is conveniently sold in the spa shop downstairs if you left it at home by mistake).

You don’t need to pack much if you are only away for a couple of days, so forget the wheelie cabin case and go for something low-key but still with a lot of style. We love this one that looks well-used already.

You don’t have time to read War and Peace, so while away the hours with a slim but beautiful book like this. A Booker Prize winner from 1994, it’s an atmospheric account of… you guessed it… a vacation in a venerable old hotel with eccentric, charming and possibly duplicitous guests. It’s gentle but totally riveting.