For many, there is no need for an introduction to the artist Tyler, The creator: musician, producer and designer of his own brand, Golf le FLEUR*.
Tyler’s involvement with fashion started from day one, with his unique streetwear-heavy looks. With brands like Supreme being his go-to, he, together with a group of friends called “Odd Future”, quickly became a key figure in the rise of streetwear and mainstream fashion.
To please his fans he came up with a merch line named “Golf Wang”, which, over the years as his style evolved, gradually changed into a more mature fashion brand, Golf le FLEUR*. Occasionally involving collaborations such as Converse or Lacoste, Tyler established a brand with a DNA close to his own personal style.
In the same way that Tyler’s style differs from other artists, his approach to watch collecting does too. There are no iced-out watches (The Editors’ note: watches fully studded by diamonds), no Patek’s Nautiluses, nor AP’s Royal Oaks nor Rolexes. No custom designs from Mad Paris or Jason of Beverly Hills. His interest is somewhere else.
Over the past couple of years, Tyler has become a true Cartier collector, popping up at auction houses dedicated to Cartier sales. What is even more interesting is his approach to watch collecting. He simply describes watches as objects that bring him joy. And he actually wears them. No matter how vintage or valuable they are, Tyler enjoys them. For him, it’s how light they feel and if he can add a colourful aspect to them, for example by attaching a colourful leather strap.
So what are the watches in Tyler’s collection which took our attention?
Cartier Pebble
If you are a regular reader of The Editors, you might have read about the re-issued Cartier Pebble already. This unusually shaped model came originally from Cartier London during the 60s (same as the now-famous Cartier Crash or Cartier Baignore) when the city was the leader in fashion, culture and music and the London branch decided to produce its own wristwatches too. Many have estimated that only about seven original pieces were ever made. Now re-issued with 150 numbered pieces, with a case in yellow gold, Tyler is one of the lucky ones to have it. And he has been sporting this watch a lot recently.
Tank Louis Cartier
Its design inspired by a military combat vehicle (seen from overhead) goes back to 1917 and has become a staple for Cartier as a brand. With only a few design changes throughout its existence and more than 100 years later, it’s still a great-looking, elegant watch. Tyler’s watch is a vintage quartz model probably from the early 90s.
Must de Cartier Tank
The model was introduced in the 70s as an affordable alternative to the model line Tank Louis, alongside pens, wallets and other accessories and new fragrances. It was in fact the first mass-produced watch in the brand’s history. People loved them then and still love them now.
It’s a perfect mix of high-low and Tyler shows how even a vintage Must de Cartier model can look damn good.
Santos Dumont de Cartier
The Cartier Santos-Dumont was the first brand’s watch created to be worn on the wrist in 1904 – for the pilot Alberto Santos-Dumont. The pioneer aviator wanted to be able to tell the time while in the cockpit without having to pull a watch out of a pocket. Its unique square shape and exposed screws quickly became recognisable Cartier trademarks. Tyler owns a gold model from the 90s or early noughties and rocks it well with a pink leather strap.
Cartier Crash
Whichever story of its design you believe, one thing is for sure – the Crash can thank artists like Tyler for its popularity (Although we don’t think that the design has anything to do with a watch involved in a car crash taken into Cartier London … nor with Salvador Dali’s The Persistence of Memory either). But with just a handful of pieces released and after-market prices ranging over the years from €200k to €300k and beyond (and one piece auctioned last year for more than one million), it might be safer for our bank accounts to look into other models anyway.
Cartier Baignoire
Cartier Baignoire got its name and design from the “baignoire” – bathtub in French. While its design is again more than 100 years old, this model was officially released under its name in 1973. Tyler’s model seems to be the one from the London branch which was behind some of the watches mentioned here. In my opinion, he could pull off one of the newer versions of this model (for example one of them released this June), the same as he did with Pebble.
And what are the other unique watches that Tyler has? He’s also been spotted wearing a vintage Cartier Coulissant, a tiny baguette-shaped watch with a protective sliding window that conceals the dial and a Cartier Petit Cylindre. This teeny tiny piece features a wildly domed semi-cylindrical solid piece of glass that covered the minimal dial.
Well, this is something else. Personally, I would be just fine with a newer mid-size version of Santos in steel.
