Paris is always a good idea as the saying goes and for sure, it’s a great place to eat. Seemingly with a brasserie or cafe on every street, the city is rightly known for its very high end – and high priced – haute cuisine and, less appealingly, for bad service and mediocre food in many tourist haunts. But inbetween is a rich vein of local favorites – often tiny, mostly crowded but usually welcoming and serving excellent food. Here are some of my regular go-tos when in the City of Light.
Chez Janou
Insanely popular and somewhat chaotic and noisy, this stalwart of the Marais has been serving Provencal food forever. The menu rarely changes but that’s fine by me. Expect tapenade, beautiful grilled fish, duck and vegetables with a few Italian inflections. But make sure you leave room for the legendary chocolate mousse, dolloped unceremoniously onto your plate from a big bowl. Glorious.
Le Petit Marché
Outwardly this corner spot, also in the Marais, looks much like many other Parisian bistros with its jumbled collection of paintings and crowded together tables. But there’s a very welcome Asian influence on the short menu here with dishes such as sesame crusted tuna, duck with figs and veal with ginger. The tempura prawns in chilli dipping sauce are particularly good.
La Chope des Artistes
Toulouse Lautrec would have loved it here. Boho and shabby, the mirrored room is hung with dusty chandeliers and tables are endlessly rearranged to accommodate a procession of hipsters, fashionistas, foodies and curious locals wanting either a glass or two of wine or a full meal. Despite the rather run down appearance, the food is elevated and beautifully cooked with a menu that changes every day. Chicken in tamarind was a highlight last time I was there, as was black pudding in squid ink.
Derriere
A bit of an Alice in Wonderland experience, this is one step away from ridiculous but still done with such conviction and creativity, we forgive it everything. Contrived as an apartment, you can eat in a bedroom, living room or even games room (avoiding the ping pong balls that fly by if someone is playing). In contrast to the playful and eccentric decor, the food is pretty standard French classics – duck confit, mussels etc etc. It won’t be the best food of your trip but it for sure will be a fun night, especially if you find the hidden speakeasy bar…
Fish La Boissonnerie
A wine bar/restaurant on the lovely Rue de Seine on the Left Bank, this converted fish store has a beautiful mosaic facade and a very welcoming atmosphere. The food is excellent – mostly riffs on French favorites but with some italian dishes too – and the wine list is extensive. On your way there, stop off at the very picturesque La Palette just up the road for a glass of champagne aperatif.
