There is an old saying, ‘if you are going to be a bear, be a grizzly’, which, in a nutshell, means that if you are going to do something, you should commit to it and think big. This can apply to everything from confidence in the workplace to choice of a shirt and, it has to be said, is not always the answer: bolder does not always mean better, and subtlety is often the preferred way. But, as an adage, it has its uses and can definitely be appropriate in the world of fragrance.
Perfumes can be graded on strength according to their concentration of essential oils: Eau de Toilette is the weakest (between 5-15%), followed by Eau de Parfum (15-20%) and finally Extrait de Parfum, which can range from 20% right up to 40%. This means Extraits have a much stronger aroma and last much longer (up to 10 hours compared to 6 for your usual perfume). Maybe counter-intuitively, due to its lower alcohol level, some of them stay closer to the skin, making them more intimate (in perfume terminology, they have less sillage, i.e., form less of a fragrant ‘cloud’ around the wearer).
The lower alcohol also means it is kinder to your skin – something worth considering if you have a sensitive epidermis. Traditionally, extraits have been used for heavier, more ‘evening’ fragrances, but they are increasingly being used for fresh and citric options too, so can still be used during the day. Here are some of our favourites.
Les Eaux Primordiales – Ambre Supermassive
The clue is in the title – this one is a beast! Spicy, fruity and a little sweet, it feels like a warm hug of fragrance, and to be honest, it is probably better for the evening. But two little sprays of this and you are set for cocktails, dinner and a couple of bars later and will still be smelling lovely. Available here.
Essential Parfums – Bois Imperial Extrait
Though this is marketed as unisex (like most these days – you might as well double your customer base, right?), this feels pretty masculine to us. Maybe it’s the vetiver, which always reminds us of barbershops, mixed with woody notes, but in any event, it’s fresh and clean and works beautifully for the day. One spray lasts FOREVER. It’s a very sophisticated option for a pretty good price, too. Available here.
Parfums de Marly – Carios
A recent addition to the Parfum de Marly stable, this is another spicy and citrusy fragrance that works beautifully for the day. It is most definitely in the luxury end of the market with a rather hefty price tag, but it works hard for the money, lasting for hours. We like the pinky-orange coloured fluid too. Available here.
Matiere Premiere – Radical Rose Extrait
Despite this fragrance contradicting what we said in the intro, it is definitely more for evening and not very summery – we could not resist adding it to our list of favourites: regular readers will know how much we love rose fragrances for men and this is one of Robin’s absolute faves. It’s very bold, very strong and absolutely gorgeous. It’s not the cheapest on the list, but you really only need the tiniest bit to smell like you have come up roses all night.
Acqua di Parma – Gelsomino A Freddo
You can rely on Acqua di Parma to do fresh, citrusy fragrances, even when they delve into the world of extraits, and this beauty proves the point. Despite the rather cumbersome name, it mixes lemon, pink pepper and black tea to create something that would totally work on a warm sunny day in Capri and still be going strong over an aperitivo a few hours later.
