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Burberry AW23

Daniel Lee unveils his first collection with a surprising avian motif

Duck Walk

On the back of Brexit, Britain is suffering a serious image problem but that didn’t deter Daniel Lee going straight to the heart of the country as inspiration for his first collection for Burberry, shown in a huge tent as part of London Fashion Week.

After a few, rather schizophrenic, years under the guidance of Italian Riccardo Tisci, the heritage brand returned (somewhat) to its roots with a collection that celebrated Britishness in all its romantic and humorous aspects, but with an edgy injection of punk attitude. Eschewing actual logos for the most part, Lee focussed on the famous Burberry check but reworking it in moody shades of purple, blue and ochre. And there were ducks everywhere, appearing as repeated graphic prints, supersized on blanket wraps and even as a knitted hat complete with dangling legs.

There was also a big focus on accessories (not surprising after Lee’s huge success at Bottega Veneta) with numerous oversized trapper hats, rose-trimmed shoes and…er… hot water bottles. With current heating prices going through the roof, those might well be winners.

Watch the whole show here:

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