We at The Editors love a specialist: someone who is damned good at one particular thing sticks to it and, by doing so, becomes an expert. We all wear knitwear but few realise the level of technical skill it takes – from yarn selection and treatment to design and construction, it involves a mastery of craft and knowledge. For Devold of Norway, this understanding flows in their veins as a business that dates back to 1853 when they started making jumpers for local fishermen to wear.
Over the years this has developed into a practical and unassuming company that provides high-quality knitted basics from underwear to traditional Norwegian sweaters but it is their offshoot label O.A.D (named after the founder Ole Andreas Devold), that has really caught our imagination. Taking generations of experience but applying a much more contemporary aesthetic, they are producing some seriously desirable knits. Unafraid to use traditional Norwegian design and techniques such as the small chevron design or the very dense, water-repellent construction, O.A.D instead reinterprets them into modern shapes and using a wider selection of top quality yarns than just the original merino wool – super soft yak hair and alpaca or mohair blends for example.
As the brand moves from the fjords of Norway into the streets of fashion capitals across the world, we spoke to Founder and Creative Director Maria Lilly Flakk, to find out more.
We love the mix of classic and contemporary at O.A.D. How do you balance both the heritage and a modern approach? What do you have to change or adapt to make the products relevant to today’s customer?
We want to create a brand that brings the spirit of Scandinavia and the story of Devold to a global audience. Devold caters mainly to the outdoor enthusiast with merino base layers and performance wear but O.A.D speaks a more refined aesthetic, redefining the heritage patterns with a contemporary edge. Sustainability is at the core of what we do, and I treat this brand as a project where we can put sustainable practices and production higher up on the agenda without compromising on design. We produce mainly in Northern Italy – an area renowned for luxury knitwear – but we also are delving into new technology and produce several styles in Norway using 3D-knitting machines. It’s the combination of these modern tools and the old know-how and techniques that are almost lost in today’s industry, that makes it unique. We also rely on the experience of Olmes Carretti, the Italian designer we work with for O.A.D. He made me realise that there are some things machines can never do. I also believe that today’s customers truly value authenticity from brands, and if you have 170 years of heritage to show for it, you don’t need to make these stories up; you have to tell them well. And when it comes to design, classics never die.
How important is being Norwegian to the brand?
O.A.D. embodies the Scandinavian spirit. Our heritage is inextricably linked to the brand itself. It’s evident in patterns like the distinctive ‘Lus’, which is based on one of the most iconic Norwegian knitting patterns: the smallest pattern possible with two threads, designed to add an extra layer of insulation to keep fishermen warm at sea. It’s in the colours we choose, inspired by Norwegian landscapes, by the sea, land, snow, forest, and sky. In Norway, knitwear tells the story of your family, of who you are and where you come from. That’s what O.A.D. represents.
Are there any negatives or challenges to having such a strong heritage?
I see our heritage as an incredible strength but of course, there is always the challenge of striking the right balance between honouring that and forging ahead into the future. We aren’t in the business of making souvenirs or fast fashion. Our focus is on timeless styles that will last for generations, and for that, we need to ensure that we’re designing refined knits that respond to today’s modern lifestyle.
How much are you influenced by what else is happening in fashion? Do you pay any attention to wider trends?
Definitely! I’m always fascinated by consumer trends and emerging movements, not only in fashion but in every sphere, from design, architecture, lifestyle, art, and travel to politics, literature, pop culture and beyond. Do we incorporate every new trend into O.A.D.? Absolutely not. You don’t create a timeless brand by constantly following the market. But I think it’s important to know what’s out there, what’s driving people in this moment, and what’s happening in the world. For instance, right now many people seem to be overwhelmed by the sheer number of global crises going on and, as a result, they’re craving connection, redefining the rules, and investing in things that provide a human story.
We love the fact you specialise in knitwear but would you ever expand beyond that to more ready-to-wear?
At the moment we’re focused on our history as masters of wool. Wool is one of the world’s most unique and versatile resources and an essential part of our heritage. It’s breathable, biodegradable, renewable, and perfect in summer or winter. I am a complete nerd for wool and can talk about its technical properties for days, and to create products from it that are so soft that it feels like you’re being wrapped in a warm hug is a big plus. Our collections use a combination of Norwegian wool and a carefully chosen selection of other high-quality natural fibres, including merino wool, cashmere, mohair, yak, and alpaca. Maybe you’ll see other things from us one day, but for now – O.A.D. is all about wool.
Photography: Stefán John Turner
