A few of our favourite shows from a mostly uninspiring season
Maybe it was always going to be so: after the stellar SS26 shows last July, this past few weeks’ big launch of AW26 seemed a bit of a damp squib. Milan started with hardly a single show that we actually liked (thank heavens for Prada’s excellent presentation). Paris fared a little better as the real creatives were there as always, but things were still a little lacklustre with even usual favourites such as Ami and Saint Laurent being a bit ho-hum this time. And Copenhagen had so little menswear in it that we might as well add it onto the big two and make a general roundup. We guess a (not so) perfect storm of alarming world politics (having a spectacular show feels a little like a Nero and Rome situation) and a truly freezing winter meant that no one’s heart seemed truly in it this season. But the ones that stood out were still good, and there were some excellent clothes to be seen.
For those who like to spot trends, apart from a sense of gloom, there seemed to be a Dickensian red thread running through lots of shows with Artful Dodgers, and Oliver Twists trotting down the runway in narrow coats (Prada), top hats (Junya Watanabe) and frock coats (Dior). Hands in pockets and a bit of a hunch were definitely the vibe. Classics definitely ruled, albeit often with a big twist, sportswear took a back seat for once, and handcrafts seemed everywhere (get out your granny’s patchwork and make it into a jacket to stay ahead of the game). Trousers were definitely getting slimmer (sorry Robin), duffle coats were everywhere, and leather jeans are back. But as always, there is so much diversity in terms of clothing, you can find anything. Diversity in terms of casting, however, seemed to take a back seat with nary a larger or older model to be seen, and, in a truly deplorable state of affairs, an entirely white cast at Dolce y Gabbana.
Gripes aside, though, there were some shows that we loved. These were some of our favourites.
Prada
Hardly part of the new wave of designers, Prada still manage to be innovative, interesting and yet wearable. A stream of upmarket Artful Dodgers in very slim long coats, quirky takes on mackintoshes and beautifully coloured knits had one foot in classic menswear but with a totally urban, young vibe. The styling was on point too, with squashed hats, loose shirt cuffs and even splatters of mud to keep things real.
Dior
After last season’s Dior posh-boy show, this one seemed to focus more on his errant brother – the one with an artistic streak and rebellious spirit. It divided the critics, some loving the creativity, others feeling it veered too far into JW Andersen territory, but in any case, column inches equal publicity, so the boss will be happy. Between the capes and sequinned tops, though, there were some beautiful suits, and the whole vibe was definitely cool. As for the cropped Bar jacket – we still can’t decide whether we love or hate it, but Harry Styles rocked it at the Grammys a week or so later.
Dries van Noten
In a season devoid of much colour and print, we can always rely on Dries van Noten to buck the trend and deliver a welcome dose of eclectic visual chaos. Following closely in his master’s footsteps, new Creative Director Julian Klausner showed dreamy knitwear in clashing panels of stripe and check and pattern, worn with kilts, baggy shorts and some eye-catching drawstring pants that looked like your boxers were poking out of the top. We loved the hats too.
Sacai
One of our favourite collections of the season, Sacai played to their strength in a season where mixed-up versions of classics appeared everywhere. They seemingly threw cut-up bikers jackets, trench coats, jeans jackets and tailoring in the air and made hybrids of what came down. Very creative, beautifully made and surprisingly easy to wear, this is the kind of clothing that looks good on all sizes and shapes. Shame our bank accounts don’t run to their price tags, though.
Hermès
For sure, not one of the most innovative or avant-garde presentations of the season, but Hermès deserves a mention for being the final show of designer Veronique Nichanian after a truly remarkable 37 years at the helm. True to form, this was about amazing quality and excellent taste – nothing to frighten the horses but plenty to terrify your bank manager. There were beautiful shearlings, fabulous bags (especially the beat box ones), and there were leather jeans a-plenty – another trend to watch out for (and maybe be a little nervous about).
Sunflower
Showing in the very grown-up confines of Copenhagen’s Library Bar, Sunflower showed it had matured somewhat in the past year. There were still the leather and denim jeans for a bit of a rock’n’roll vibe, but these were worn with some wonderful coats that had real urban swagger. Everything looked easy and wearable with just the right amount of attitude to make it stand out from the crowd.
Ranra
Reykjavik/London-based Ranra proved that outerwear need not be dull with a great collection of deliciously coloured blousons, parkas and duffle coats (another on-trend item this season). Innovation in fabric meant things were lightweight but warm, and the pieces looked great layered over easy tailoring. Enormous hoods were dramatic and somewhat dangerous as one blinkered model found as he strayed blindly into the crowd…
