Usually, any mention of the esoteric – though very profitable – world of fragrance conjures up romanticised images of rose and lavender-filled fields surrounding the picturesque city of Grasse in Provence, though admittedly the reality is more often to be found in marketing boardrooms in Paris. However, they do things a bit differently at Les Eaux Primordiales: from that unusual name and the company’s surprising location to some rather left-field production methods, the brand stands as a creative alternative to the corporate universe of perfume licences. On his recent trip to Copenhagen, coinciding with the launch of his latest scent, Elevation, we sat down with founder Arnaud Poulain to find out a bit more about his very individual approach to perfumery.
First of all, why the name Les Eaux Primordiales?
It’s actually a phrase taken from Jules Verne’s famous book Twenty Thousand Leagues Under the Sea, where it refers to the very first signs of life. I love the idea of going back to the authentic roots of something – whether that is craftsmanship, knowledge or even a sense of home and belonging.
Does that then relate to why you are based in the industrial north of France rather than Grasse?
Yes, for sure. The company is based where I was brought up, and for me, it is really important that I stay close to my roots. Where I live is the opposite of Grasse. There is no sun, no flowers, it’s a different culture with lots of coal mining and industry, but the people are warm and welcoming. Being close to my family affects my creativity as it means I am in a good mental state and not stressed. I also love the industrial architecture mixed with the dense forests and hills, and that has a big influence on my creative process, where I may start with a photograph of a building or a piece of art and interpret that into a fragrance. I really respect the knowledge of the traditional perfume world of Grasse, which is why I use the very best ingredients, but in the balance of how I use them, I want to evoke the future. The modernity also comes through in the packaging too – the bottles are based on the industrial buildings near where I grew up.
What do you think makes a good fragrance?
If you want to create a fragrance that sells, you need to create emotion with people, and they are always touched by something that hints at nostalgia because often your deepest memories come from olfactory senses. You often live your most intense experiences between the ages of ten and twenty, and your sense of smell can bring these back. If I can bring back positive nostalgia to someone, then I know it will be a fragrance they will fall in love with.
I hear that you play classical music in the rooms where the perfume ingredients are macerating. Why is this?
It’s based on real science! The process of maceration can be sped up by molecular vibrations, meaning that the ingredients mix together more quickly. If we play music at 432 hertz – a natural frequency that promotes harmony in living organisms – then we get the final effect anything up to six times faster. I like to play Chopin as he is a composer who means a lot to me personally, but we also generate our own sounds based on the electric signals measured within a flower. It is nature influencing the fragrance via science. The end result is a deeper, rounder perfume – like a mature wine.
Are you influenced by trends in the fragrance world?
I don’t really pay much attention to trends. For example, when I created Couleur Primaire for Colette (the legendary Parisian store) eleven years ago, it was the opposite of what was trendy at the time. It was the beginning of the niche perfume phenomenon with very rich, deep ingredients, and I made something very soft and clean, albeit made with expensive, high-quality components. Some trends, like that for juicy, fruity fragrances, have no place in the Les Eaux Primordiales world.
Finally, what is your personal favourite?
I am very proud of Mimosa Supercritique because it is based on the flowers my mother carried at her wedding and always reminds me of her, but my favourite is probably Amber Supermassive as it is very complex. Also, Ceder Supermassive is my hidden treasure that mixes the scent of ceder wood with roses, pink berries and pink pepper. But I do change all the time – I like to use fragrance as a tool to make myself feel better, more confident or just happier.
